Char the vegetables: Place the whole aubergines and peppers directly over a gas flame on your hob, turning occasionally with tongs. You want the skins to blacken and blister completely — this takes about 10-12 minutes. You'll hear a satisfying hiss and pop, and the air will fill with a sweet, smoky aroma. Alternatively, place them under a very hot grill (broiler), turning every few minutes until charred all over.

Steam and peel: Transfer the charred vegetables to a large bowl and cover tightly with cling film or a clean tea towel. Leave them to steam for 15 minutes. This step is crucial; the steam loosens the skins, making them a breeze to peel. When cool enough to handle, the skins should slip off easily, revealing the tender, smoky flesh beneath.

Prepare the vegetables: Once peeled, tear the aubergine flesh into rough strips. It will be very soft and almost melting — that's exactly what you want. Deseed the peppers and slice them into similar-sized strips. Set both aside. The smell at this point is incredible, a promise of the meal to come.

Build the sauce base: In a large, heavy-based pan or Dutch oven, warm the 4 tablespoons of olive oil over a medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook for 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it turns translucent and soft. You want it to smell sweet and fragrant, not browned. Add the sliced garlic and cook for another minute until you can smell its pungent aroma.

Cook down the tomatoes: Stir in the tomato purée and smoked paprika, cooking for a minute until it darkens slightly and smells deeply savoury. Pour in the tinned tomatoes, add the dried oregano, and season with a good pinch of salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer and let it cook for 10 minutes, stirring now and then. The sauce should thicken slightly and turn a rich, deep red.

Combine and simmer: Add the prepared aubergine and pepper strips to the tomato sauce. Stir everything together gently. Let the sauce simmer for another 10 minutes, allowing the smoky sweetness of the grilled vegetables to meld with the tomatoes. You'll see the sauce become glossy and aromatic.

Cook the pasta: While the sauce simmers, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. Add your pasta and cook until al dente, following the packet instructions. Just before draining, reserve a mugful of the starchy pasta water. The pasta water is liquid gold for adjusting the sauce's consistency.

Finish and serve: Drain the pasta and tip it into the pan with the sauce. Add a splash of the reserved pasta water and toss everything together over a low heat for a minute or two. The sauce should cling beautifully to every piece of pasta. Take the pan off the heat, stir through most of the fresh basil, and taste for seasoning. Serve immediately, topped with crumbled ricotta salata or feta and the remaining basil leaves. I stumbled upon this combination by accident, and it's been a hit ever since.