Brown the beef in batches. Set your largest, heaviest pot over a high flame and add the olive oil. When the oil shimmers and sends up its first wisp of heat-haze, add half the beef mince. Spread it flat and leave it completely alone for a full three minutes – you'll hear it hiss and sputter, then a deep, nutty, caramelised smell will rise. Only then should you break it apart with a wooden spoon. The mince should be dark brown, almost mahogany in patches, with crispy edges. Scoop it out onto a plate and repeat with the remaining beef. Do not rush this stage; pale grey mince means a pale grey flavour.

Sweat the vegetables until tender. Lower the heat to medium and tip the onions, carrots, and celery into the pot. There should be enough fat clinging to the pot from the beef; if not, add a splash more oil. Stir and let them soften for eight to ten minutes, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom. The onions will turn translucent, the carrots will release a faint sweetness, and the kitchen will smell like the beginning of something deeply savoury. Add the garlic and red pepper and cook for two more minutes, until the garlic is fragrant but not at all burnt.

Stir in the tomato purée and spices. Add the tomato purée and stir constantly for a full two minutes. It will darken from bright red to a deep, rusty crimson and the raw, tinny smell will transform into something rich and concentrated. Sprinkle over the smoked paprika, cumin, oregano, and cayenne. Stir for another thirty seconds – the spices will bloom and release their oils, and the air will turn warm and smoky.

Pour in the tomatoes and stock. Tip in both tins of chopped tomatoes and the warmed beef stock. Return the browned beef to the pot along with any juices that have pooled on the plate. Stir everything together, bring it to a gentle boil – you'll see big, lazy bubbles breaking the surface – then reduce the heat to a low simmer. Let it bubble softly, uncovered, for fifteen minutes. The sauce will thicken slightly and the colour will deepen to a rich, earthy red. Taste and add salt and pepper – I find a full teaspoon of salt and plenty of black pepper works well here.

Cook the macaroni in the sauce. Stir in the dried macaroni and the drained kidney beans. Press the pasta down so it's fully submerged in the liquid. Put the lid on, reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting, and let it cook for twelve to fourteen minutes. Every four minutes, lift the lid and give it a good stir – you'll see the sauce thickening and the macaroni swelling, and the aroma that escapes will be thick and beefy and almost intoxicating. The pasta should be tender but still holding its shape, with just a tiny white core when you bite one in half.

Finish with cheese and rest. Remove the pot from the heat. Sprinkle the grated cheddar evenly over the surface, put the lid back on, and leave it completely alone for five full minutes. Do not lift the lid, do not stir. The residual heat will melt the cheese into a glossy, stretchy blanket. When you finally uncover it, the top will be a golden, bubbled crust, and underneath, the chili macaroni will be thick, creamy, and steaming.