Prepare the tomatoes. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Score a small 'X' on the bottom of each tomato with a sharp knife. Drop them into the boiling water for 30-45 seconds, until you see the skin begin to wrinkle and peel back at the cuts. Transfer them immediately to a bowl of ice water. Once cool enough to handle, slip off the skins — they should slide away easily. Roughly chop the peeled tomatoes, catching all the juices in a bowl. Set aside. The sweet, grassy scent of the freshly peeled tomatoes will fill your kitchen.

Cook the capellini. In the same pot of boiling water, add a generous tablespoon of salt (the water should taste like the sea). Add the capellini and cook according to package directions until al dente — usually 3-4 minutes. Capellini cooks very quickly, so keep a close eye on it. Drain, reserving about a cup of the starchy pasta water. The pasta should be tender but still have a slight resistance at the centre when you bite into it.

Start the sauce base. While the pasta cooks, place a large frying pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil and let it warm for a minute until it shimmers. Add the sliced garlic and diced onion. Cook, stirring often with a wooden spoon, for 3-4 minutes until the onion becomes translucent and the garlic is fragrant but not browned. The aroma at this stage is wonderfully savoury and inviting.

Add the tomatoes. Pour the chopped tomatoes and all their reserved juices into the pan. Stir in the salt, black pepper, and sugar (if using). Increase the heat to medium-high and bring the sauce to a gentle simmer. You should hear a soft, steady bubbling sound. Reduce the heat to low and let it cook uncovered for 12-15 minutes, stirring occasionally. The sauce will thicken slightly, and the colour will deepen to a rich, glossy red. The smell will become intensely tomatoey and sweet.

Finish the sauce. Once the sauce has thickened to your liking, taste and adjust the seasoning. Stir in the torn basil leaves, chopped parsley, and red pepper flakes if using. Let the herbs warm through for just one minute — you want them to stay bright and fresh. The basil will release its unmistakable perfume, a clear sign the sauce is ready.

Combine pasta and sauce. Add the drained capellini directly to the pan of sauce. Toss gently with tongs, adding a splash of the reserved pasta water if the sauce seems too thick. You want the sauce to coat each strand of pasta lightly, not drown it. Sprinkle over the grated Parmesan and toss once more. The cheese will melt into the warm sauce, creating a silky, cohesive finish. Serve immediately in warm bowls, with extra Parmesan and a few fresh basil leaves on top. My husband, who's usually picky, asked for seconds the first time I made this!